Celine's Menswear Evolution: A Fresh Take on Timeless Classics
Celine's menswear journey is a relatively recent phenomenon, having only entered the scene seven years ago with the appointment of Hedi Slimane as creative director. Established in 1945 and acquired by LVMH in 1996, Celine's menswear debut was a bold move, and it's fascinating to see how the brand has evolved since.
The influence of Slimane's aesthetic still lingers at Celine's headquarters on Rue Vivienne. The space showcases Michael Rider's fall 2026 collection, which was unveiled in the very same rooms where Slimane made his runway debut as artistic director last summer. While some of Slimane's signature elements remain, such as the iconic pointy-toed Cuban-heeled boots paired with skinny jeans, Rider's collection takes a different approach.
Rider's collection introduces a unique blend of classic and contemporary styles, with a focus on subtle details and a distinct aesthetic. The collection features slightly raised waists on belted wool coats, square-bottomed silk neckties, shiny gold buttons on a boxy melton blazer, and offbeat creases on double-breasted jacket sleeves. These touches add a modern twist to traditional pieces, creating a fresh and distinctive look.
The presentation style is equally intriguing. Rider displays the collection on pegs on the wall, a departure from Slimane's grand marble and Art Deco displays. This approach adds a sense of casual elegance to the collection, showcasing the nonchalant style that Rider is known for.
The collection's inspiration is evident in its '90s influences, such as the generous cut of tailored coats, French blue dress shirts, and the use of moleskin in a trim camel coat. However, Rider's philosophy is to offer a range of options, as demonstrated by the impressive array of stacked jeans and sweaters in various washed colors, providing a versatile and adaptable wardrobe.
Rider's philosophy is succinctly captured in his statement, 'Classics with bite,' emphasizing the importance of character over mere costume. This approach reflects his ability to infuse traditional pieces with a modern edge, creating a unique and captivating collection that stands out in the fashion world.
